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Ashcombe Museum of Art & History
Textiles & Costume

Long Shawl with Black Center and Exotic Four-Sided Gallery in Chinoiserie Style

Textile

Details

Author / creator
India, Kashmir
Object type
Textile
Date or period
1840s
Dimensions summary
Overall: 332.8 × 139.6 cm
Place of origin
India
Acquisition method
Donation
Credit line
Gift of Professor Arthur Kinsley, 2010
Fibres
  • Wool
Structure
Tapestry weave
Image rights
Public domain (CC0)

About this object

This expensive woven shawl has been refreshed—that is, its outdated designs have been replaced with beautiful new decoration. Overlapping pairs of botehs, or paisleys, enliven the original end panels (pallava) whereas the area around the central black rectangle was updated with an exotic four-sided gallery featuring ships, buildings, and flags that suggest Chinese influence. This stunning shawl is composed of seven almost invisibly joined pieces. One large section contains both ends and the continuous side borders while six pieces create the space in the middle. When the shawl was refreshed with the new chic gallery, black pigment—hardly visible—was applied along the edges of the central black section. The inscription may identify the textile’s quality or material content.

Materials and technique

Wool; 2/2 twill tapestry (S), double interlocked, pieced, refreshed

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